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Damage & drainage

Your dog is digging up the artificial grass. It started at an edge.

Dogs almost never dig in the middle of a turf lawn. They dig at the edges, the seams and the corners, because that is where they can get a claw under something. A lifted edge flaps, it smells like the soil under it, and once a dog has peeled a corner back it becomes a game. Fix the edge and most of the digging stops.

4 min read · Updated · by Brian, TIMELESS Turf Restoration

Artificial turf edge secured against a rock border

How do I stop my dog from digging up the artificial grass?

Stop the dog by taking away the grip. Dogs dig artificial grass at edges and seams that have lifted, because a loose edge gives their claws something to pull and lets the smell of soil through. Re-securing the edge with nails or staples at close spacing, or adhesive where it meets concrete, and closing any open seam removes the handhold, and most dogs lose interest. Turf-safe deterrents help in the meantime; stain-prone sprays do not. TIMELESS Turf Restoration re-secures edges and seams across the Grand Strand.

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Why dogs dig turf, and why it is always the edge

A dog digging a lawn is after something: a cooler spot, a scent, a buried bone, or just the pleasure of it. Turf takes most of that away. The fibers do not give, the infill does not hold scent the way soil does, and there is nothing to find. What turf offers instead is an edge.

  • A lifted edge. Nails back out over a few seasons, especially on the Grand Strand where the sandy ground under them shifts when it is wet. The edge lifts a quarter inch, a claw catches it, and it peels.
  • An open seam. Seam tape that has let go leaves a line the dog can get a nail into. Once the seam is open an inch, it goes fast.
  • The smell underneath. Soil, moles, a vole run, or urine that has gone through into the base all smell like something worth digging for. A lifted edge lets that smell up.
  • Boredom. A young dog left alone in a small run will find the one thing in it that moves.

Check the edges before you blame the dog

Walk the whole perimeter and try to lift the turf every couple of feet with your fingertips. Sound edge does not move. Then look at the corners, which lift first, and along any concrete or paver border, where turf is usually glued rather than nailed and the glue can let go. Follow each seam with your hand and feel for a ridge or a gap. Note where the dog has been working: the spot it always goes back to is the spot that is loose, not the spot it prefers. If the dog is digging in one place that is not an edge, press the turf there; a soft spot or a raised tunnel line means something is under it, and our page on soft spots covers that.

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Securing the edge

An edge that is lifted but not torn is re-secured: the turf is pulled tight, nailed or stapled at close spacing along the whole run, not just where it came up, and a bender board or a buried edge restraint is added where there was none. Turf against concrete is cleaned and re-glued. Open seams are cut back to sound backing and re-taped and glued. Where the dog has torn the turf itself, that section is cut out and patched.

That is the edge and seam repair service: edge re-securing from $175, seam repair from $250. Both are usually a single visit. If urine has gone through into the base and the dog is digging for that smell, the edge fix holds the turf down but the smell is a separate odor treatment, and we will tell you if that is what we find under the corner.

Turf-safe deterrents, and keeping the edges tight

Skip cayenne, pepper sprays and citrus oils on turf; they stain, they wash into the infill and they are unpleasant for the dog without teaching it much. A bitter-taste deterrent labeled for pets is turf-safe and buys a few days while the edge is fixed. A row of stones or a rock border laid over the secured edge takes away the grip permanently and looks intentional. For a dog that just needs to dig, a sand box in a corner of the run redirects it better than anything sprayed on the turf.

Then keep the edges tight. Walk them twice a year, after the wet summer and after a storm, and press any corner that lifts. Every Premium Restoration includes an edge and seam inspection, and a nail hammered back in on a routine visit is a lot cheaper than a torn corner. Call us when an edge lifts more than you can push back down, when a seam has opened, or when the dog has pulled a piece up. Edge repair from $175, seam repair from $250, patches from $250.

The fix: Turf Repair. Edge repair from $175 · seam repair from $250 · patch repair from $250. Get a free quote or call 303-349-2368.
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FAQs

Related questions

1Will the dog just move to a different edge?
Sometimes, for a week. If every edge is tight there is nothing to grip and most dogs give up. A dog that keeps trying is usually bored, and that is exercise and a dig box rather than more nails.
2Can I re-nail the edge myself?
Yes, for a short section. Use galvanized turf nails or landscape staples every six to eight inches, pull the turf tight as you go, and brush the fibers up over the heads. A whole perimeter, or an edge along concrete, is worth having done.
3My dog chews the turf fibers. Is that the same problem?
No. Chewing is usually a young dog or boredom, and it happens in the open, not at the edge. It leaves frayed tips that a brush tidies and a patch fixes if it is bad. Edges being tight does not stop chewing; supervision and something better to chew does.
4Does a torn corner need the whole edge replaced?
Rarely. The torn piece is cut out and patched, and the rest of the edge is re-secured. Edge repair from $175 plus the patch, from $250, covers most dog damage in one visit.
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