How do you add infill to artificial grass?
Check depth with a ruler first, and add infill only where it has dropped below what the turf was built for. Spread it in thin, even passes and brush it into the fibers between passes so it settles instead of sitting on top. Pet zones do best with an odor-control infill. TIMELESS Turf Restoration measures and redistributes infill on every Premium Restoration visit on the Grand Strand.
Key takeaways
- Infill supports the fibers, adds weight, and cushions the surface. Losing some over time is normal; ignoring it is not.
- Check depth with a ruler before adding anything. Add where it is low, not everywhere out of habit.
- Thin passes brushed in between beat one heavy dump every time.
- Pet zones do better with an odor-control infill than a standard sand.
What infill actually does
Infill does three jobs: it supports fibers so they stand upright rather than leaning over under their own weight and foot traffic; it adds weight that keeps the turf lying flat against the backing and base rather than shifting; and it cushions the surface, which matters more on paths, patios and play areas than on open lawn. All three fade as infill settles from rain and foot traffic, and a small amount is always lost to wind over the fiber tips, which is normal rather than a sign of a problem.
Check before you add
Do not add infill on a schedule. Check depth first with a ruler test in the pet zone, on the main path and in the middle of the yard, and add only where the reading has actually dropped below target.
Brian prices it by square foot before any work starts, and every job ends blown clean.
How much
Work it out by area: measure the square footage of the low zone, our measuring page covers odd shapes, and buy enough to bring that specific area up to depth rather than guessing at a bag count for the whole yard. New infill runs $0.75 to $1.50 per square foot installed if we do it, which gives a sense of scale for a bag-by-bag estimate too, since coverage rates for a given depth are printed on the bag.
Spreading it in
Use a drop spreader for an even yard-wide pass, or broadcast by hand in a back-and-forth pattern for a smaller zone, working in thin layers rather than one heavy pour, which clumps and sits on top instead of settling between fibers. Brush against the grain after each thin pass to work it down to the backing, then add the next layer. Finish with a last brushing pass once you are at target depth.
Pet zones
A standard sand infill holds odor-causing bacteria the same way any infill can. An infill made for pet zones, generally a zeolite-type mineral or a coated sand designed to bind ammonia and resist bacterial growth, holds up better in a zone used daily. If a pet zone has needed enzyme treatment more than once, replacing rather than just topping up the infill there is usually the better move.
Mistakes
- Dumping a whole bag in one spot and raking it out. Leaves an uneven mound under the surface.
- Skipping the brush-in between passes. Sand sits on the tips instead of settling in.
- Adding infill to a spot that is actually matted, not low. A ruler check first would have shown depth is fine and the real fix is brushing, not more sand.
- Using play sand or mason sand. Wrong grain shape and size; it does not distribute or drain the way turf infill does.
When to call us
A yard low across most of its square footage, or a pet zone that keeps needing odor treatment, is more efficient as a measured, machine-spread job than bag by bag. Infill replenishment to redistribute what is already there is part of every Premium Restoration from $299 and also runs $0.35 to $0.65 per square foot on its own; new infill where it is genuinely needed runs $0.75 to $1.50 per square foot installed.
Free quote, priced by square foot. You approve any add-on before we do it.
