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Guide

How much infill artificial turf needs, by pile height

Infill is the sand or granule layer that holds the fibers up, weighs the turf down and takes the wear. Too little and the fibers mat and the backing shows; too much and the yard feels hard and holds more urine. Here is how much you should have, how to measure it, and the arithmetic for topping up.

6 min read · Updated · by Brian, TIMELESS Turf Restoration

How much infill does artificial turf need?

Most landscape artificial turf carries roughly 2 to 3 pounds of infill per square foot, which reads as three-eighths to half an inch of sand at the base of the fibers; putting greens and taller turf carry more, and the manufacturer spec wins. One pound of sand covers a square foot an eighth of an inch deep. TIMELESS Turf Restoration measures and tops up infill across the Grand Strand.

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Depth by pile height

Infill sits in the base of the fibers, down in the curly thatch layer on landscape turf. Its job is to hold the blades upright, add weight so the turf does not shift, and take the abrasion that would otherwise wear the fiber base. The right amount depends on the pile height and how dense the turf is, so the table below is a starting point and the manufacturer spec, if you can find it, is the answer.

TurfPile heightTypical infillMeasured depth, roughlyMaterial
Putting green1/2 to 5/8 in3 to 5 lb per sq ftJust below the fiber tipsKiln-dried rounded green sand
Short pet or play turf1 to 1 1/4 in1.5 to 2.5 lb per sq ft1/4 to 3/8 inOdor-control infill or coated sand
Standard landscape turf1 1/2 to 1 3/4 in2 to 3 lb per sq ft3/8 to 1/2 inSilica sand; a pet blend in dog zones
Tall landscape turf2 in and up3 to 4 lb per sq ft1/2 to 5/8 inSilica sand
Practice and sports turf2 to 2 1/2 inHeavier, usually a layered systemPer the specSand base with a rubber or coated top layer

These are approximate. Denser turf holds less sand because the fibers take up the room; thinner turf needs more to stand up. If the installer left a roll label or a care sheet, the pounds-per-square-foot figure on it beats anything in this table.

How to measure what you have

  1. Pick five spots: the main walking path, the pet zone, a shaded strip, an edge, and one untouched corner nobody walks on. The corner is your reference for what the yard was installed with.
  2. Part the fibers with your fingers and push a ruler or a nail down until it touches the backing. Read where the infill surface sits.
  3. Or measure the exposed fiber above the infill and subtract it from the pile height. On a 1 1/2 inch pile with 1 inch of fiber showing, you have about half an inch of infill.
  4. Write the five numbers down. A path that reads a quarter inch lower than the corner has migrated or compacted; a pet zone that reads high and crusty has been topped over a smell.
  5. Press your palm down. Infill that feels like damp cake rather than loose sand is saturated with organics and needs cleaning or replacing, not adding to.

Do this once a year, after the spring deep clean, and you will catch thin spots before the fibers start to mat. Our matted paths page explains why low infill and matting go together.

Rather have it done properly the first time?

Brian prices it by square foot before any work starts, and every job ends blown clean.

The bag arithmetic

Dry silica sand weighs about 95 to 105 pounds per cubic foot, which gives you a rule you can do in your head: one pound of sand covers one square foot to a depth of about an eighth of an inch. From there:

Depth to addPounds per sq ftPer 100 sq ft50-lb bags per 100 sq ft
1/8 in1 lb100 lb2
1/4 in2 lb200 lb4
3/8 in3 lb300 lb6
1/2 in4 lb400 lb8

Worked example: a 600 square foot lawn reads a quarter inch low on the 300 square feet of path and pet zone and fine elsewhere. You need 300 × 2 = 600 pounds, or 12 bags, for the low areas only. Do not spread it across the whole yard; the untouched half does not need it and will end up over-filled.

Two cautions. Zeolite-type odor infill is noticeably lighter than sand, so go by the coverage chart on the bag rather than this table. And every figure here is approximate: sand settles, some works down into the thatch, and a yard that has never been brushed will swallow the first few bags into the flattened fibers.

Pet zones

The depth is the same as the rest of the yard; the material is different. Plain silica sand holds urine residue and gives bacteria a place to live. Odor-control infill, either a zeolite-type mineral that binds ammonia or a sand with an antimicrobial coating, does the same structural job while holding the smell down between rinses. Most pet yards do fine with the odor infill in the zone the dog actually uses and plain sand everywhere else.

Do not go deeper in the pet zone to soak up more. Deeper infill holds more urine and dries slower, which on the Grand Strand's humid stretch from May to October can mean days at a time without fully drying. If the existing infill in the zone is crusted, dark and smells stronger below than above, it is past cleaning: we extract it and replace it, which is the infill replenishment service, and it costs less than it sounds because the zone is usually under 200 square feet.

Too much is also a problem

  • The yard feels hard and the fibers look short, because they are buried.
  • Sand migrates in heavy rain and piles up at the low edge or in the drain.
  • A pet zone holds more urine, not less.
  • A putting green runs bumpy when sand sits above the tips, and the ball skids instead of rolling.

The fix is redistribution, not removal: we brush the excess from the high spots into the thin ones, and only take infill off the yard when it is contaminated.

When to call us

If the five-spot check shows more than a quarter inch of difference between the reference corner and the paths, or the pet zone infill is crusted, book a visit. Infill measurement and redistribution are part of every Premium Restoration, from $299 for up to 500 square feet and $399 for 501 to 1,000. Redistribution on its own is $0.35 to $0.65 per square foot, and new infill installed is $0.75 to $1.50 per square foot depending on the material, quoted after we measure. See the price table for the full bands.

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FAQs

Related questions

1Can I add infill myself?
Yes, for a light top-up on clean turf. Brush against the grain first, spread the sand by hand or with a drop spreader over the low areas only, brush it in, and rinse lightly to settle it. Do not add sand over a smell or onto dirty infill; that buries the problem for a few weeks and then makes it worse.
2What kind of sand should I use?
Kiln-dried, rounded silica sand sold for synthetic turf. Not play sand, which is fine and dusty and holds water, and not masonry sand, which is angular and the wrong grade. Putting greens use a rounded green-colored sand made for the purpose.
3Does all artificial turf need infill?
Some short, dense turfs are sold as non-infill, but most residential turf on the Grand Strand was installed with it, and in our experience even the non-infill kind holds up better with a light ballast. If yours came without any, ask the installer what the product calls for before adding it.
4How often does infill need topping up?
Most yards need a light top-up in the paths and pet zone every two to three years, and a measurement once a year. Yards that get power brushed regularly lose less because the fibers stay upright and hold the sand in place.
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